Ulla Johnson's Fall 2025 collection

Ulla Johnson's Fall 2025 collection was a poignant tribute to her mother, Jasmina Draskovic-Johnson, who passed away in January. The collection subtly referenced her mother's artistic practice, featuring hand-painted black evening dresses embellished with gold leaf, echoing her mother's own gold-leaf paintings. Gold cloqué, gold-shot tweed, and gold lamé polka dots on black tulle further enhanced this theme.

While discussing the collection's merits felt almost inappropriate given Johnson's recent loss, she shared touching reflections on her mother backstage: "They always say you turn into your parents. But I really trace so much of my work and passions to the things she taught me."

This season marked a significant evolution in Johnson's design approach. A collaboration with French artist Julie Hamisky resulted in jewelry and accessories featuring electroplated flowers—a process Johnson described as "preserving ephemera in perpetuity"—culminating in a striking poppy belt buckle adorning a shaggy shearling coat.

A glamorous, crystal-embellished black dress represented a notable departure from Johnson's typically earthier aesthetic and is sure to be a retail favorite, judging by the strong front-row presence. Further elevating the collection's craftsmanship, Johnson collaborated with Dutch textile artist Claudy Jongstra on felted coats (Looks 10 and 17), utilizing naturally dyed yarns from Jongstra's own sheep. Uniquely spray-painted coats from Italy added to the collection's handcrafted feel. In every aspect, the collection was a fitting and beautiful homage to Johnson's mother.

Autumn/Winter 2025 ~ celebrating the exquisite beauty found in fragility. The delicate yet resilient aspects of nature are immortalized in timeless elegance. The Nisha dress features shimmering threads intricately woven into a flowing cloque, complemented by Le Géante, a striking bronze poppy in full bloom, crafted by French artist Julie Hamisky.