Schiaparelli FALL 2024 READY-TO-WEAR
To celebrate the centenary of surrealism, Daniel Roseberry paid homage to the surrealist element of hair inspired by Pippa Garner, Mimi Parent, and by Meret Oppenheim’s iconic fur bracelet for Elsa Schiaparelli.
“For the past few years the word visibility has come up,” Roseberry said at a preview in the Schiaparelli salons. His runway coups and front row gets have made the brand as visible as its significantly larger and better-known competitors. But having done so, he’s moving on to another goal: “It’s more about adding a layer of legitimacy to the way people think about the house,” he said. “So that when you think of Schiaparelli you don’t just think of celebrities, you don’t just think of couture. You also think of everyday pieces that you could be wearing right now.”
"In the five years I’ve been here, we’ve created any number of infamous moments with our couture looks, combustions of fashion, celebrity, culture, and history. All the while, however, we’ve been developing couture’s sister: Our ready-to-wear, fully formed, hyper-exclusive collections for the daily lives of our clientele. These collections are complete wardrobes of everyday staples — but with the volume turned up to Schiaparelli settings.
Call it ready-to-wear — that’s what it is. It does technically fit the definition of the term. Just don’t call it demi-couture, even though, as in couture, every piece is designed to tickle, to thrill, and even to shock — to bring a touch of psycho-chic to both wearer and viewer alike.
So what is Schiap ready-to-wear? It’s a wardrobe full of blazer variations, crisp slacks and separates, and dramatic evening wear — with both our founder’s beloved iconographies (the anatomy, the measuring tape, the keyhole) and my beloved Americanisms (fringe, buckles, and denim) making starring appearances and cameos throughout. But what might really define our collections are our accessories, where the esprit de Schiap makes its strongest case yet. We ask ourselves two questions when designing our accessories: First, is it a piece she can only find at Schiaparelli? And second, will someone cross a room and ask her “Excuse me, where’s your [necklace/bag/shoe] from, and where can I get one?”.
I can’t tell you how many times customers have told me that a stranger has approached them to ask about our Face bag (also known as our Madame Potato Head sac) — this is a model that we initially thought might only last a season or two, but continues to be one of our most in-demand items, or our Schiap bag, our most recent icon referencing our very own Measuring Tape and Keyhole. These are accessories, from our best-in-the-industry costume bijoux to the little gold toes peeping out from your perfectly cut trousers, that’re made with the ambition of being “future vintage”: Something to covet and wear now but that I hope will one day be considered a defining piece from this chapter of the maison’s history. We’ll also be unveiling new small leather goods, glasses, keyhole pump and bags, cowboy boots…
Since 1934, Schiaparelli’s literal home has been 21 Place Vendôme. Here and beyond, we have created our own planet of creativity and pop culture, focused on craft and luxury. And it’s made for everyday, not just the rare, precious moments of life when only couture will do. It’s for every occasion and everywhere — just make sure you can get used to being asked “Excuse me… where did you get that piece?” Daniel Roseberry.
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