INTERVIEW: The Artistic Vision of Roberto Coin
Roberto Coin: the name synonymous with luxurious, exquisitely crafted jewelry in Vicenza, the City of Gold. From his picturesque Italian hometown to the international world of high jewelry, Coin's designs weave emotion and artistry, each piece subtly marked with his signature: a tiny ruby. Though his career began unexpectedly—after studying hotel management and working as a hotel manager—his entrepreneurial spirit led him to the jewelry industry, culminating in the launch of his company in Vicenza in 1977.
It wasn’t until 1996 that Roberto Coin officially introduced his eponymous brand, marking a bold departure from traditional jewelry design. Guided by his deep passion for art and fashion, his collections quickly gained recognition for their originality, craftsmanship, and technical mastery. Drawing inspiration from nature, history, and global cultures, Coin’s early successes included the “Appassionata” collection, known for its intricate woven goldwork, and the “Fantasia” collection, celebrated for its sophisticated use of colored gemstones. These early triumphs set the foundation for a brand synonymous with luxury and innovation.
At the heart of Coin’s creative philosophy is the belief that true artistry is an expression of freedom. “Creativity has always been the most important thing in my life because, to me, creativity is freedom,” he reflects. “It’s not just about jewelry—it’s about life, people, and the endless possibilities that come with imagination. Creativity connects me with different cultures, different hearts, and deepens my understanding of my own work.”
Roberto Coin’s designs are more than just exquisite adornments; they carry personal narratives and echoes of history. His pieces are infused with emotion, making them heirlooms rich with sentiment. Nature, in particular, plays a vital role in his creations, with each piece reflecting the vibrancy and beauty of the world around us. Expert artisans meticulously craft every design, working with the finest materials—dazzling diamonds, radiant gemstones, and luxurious metals—transforming them into expressions of color, texture, and light.
One of the most distinctive elements of his jewelry is the hidden ruby, an intimate signature tucked inside each creation. Inspired by an ancient Egyptian belief that rubies, when worn against the skin, bring love, happiness, and longevity, Coin adopted this tradition as a secret blessing for the wearer.
You started your jewelry business from scratch, which is quite rare, especially in Italy, where family traditions play a significant role in the industry. What sparked your interest?
Roberto Coin: You’re right—I started from nothing and completely on my own, which is always an exciting journey. I lost my parents at a very young age—when I was just eight years old. My uncles looked after me, but not too closely, so I was largely left to my own devices. One must remember that I was born in Venice, a city where it’s impossible not to absorb the culture of the Italian Middle Ages and the Renaissance. These influences can still be felt in Roberto Coin collections today.
I have always been drawn to well-educated people with a strong cultural and ethical background. Fortunately, I met many such individuals along the way—otherwise, who knows how my life would have turned out? In school and university, I was passionate about gymnastics and football, but in the end, I gave up sports for what seemed to be a promising career in the hotel industry. By my early thirties, I had already opened my own hotel on the island of Guernsey in the English Channel.
Then, my older brother invited me to accompany him to Vicenza for a jewelry fair, where he was meeting with business partners. I was completely enchanted by this world—one I knew nothing about at the time, beyond the fact that gold is yellow and diamonds are colorless. At 32, I decided to change my life for the jewelry industry. I sold the hotel, returned to Venice, and quickly registered my company in Vicenza.
Over the next few years, I visited more than a thousand jewelry manufacturers across 30 countries and met with key figures in the business. It was a kind of life school—a crash course in understanding how the industry works. Only after that did I decide I was capable of running my own business, investing all my savings into it. At the very least, I believed I could create something meaningful.
I started by designing jewelry myself, having various workshops in Vicenza bring my ideas to life, and then selling them to other brands—those who wanted to put their name on them. This continued for seven years and was quite successful. After those seven years, I had proven to myself that I had a good eye for design and had passed the test. In 1996, I decided I was ready to produce jewelry under my own name—and that’s how the Roberto Coin brand was born.
Having observed the vast range of Roberto Coin collections over the years, I assume that coming up with design ideas has never been an issue for you. But how did you build your brand? How did you find the right people and assemble your team?
R.C.: You’re absolutely right—finding the right people to help build a strong company is crucial. During those seven years when I was creating jewelry for other brands, I also found like-minded individuals who were ready to follow me. Most of them are still working at Roberto Coin today. My sales director, for example, has remained the same, and throughout my life, I’ve only had two personal assistants—one of whom simply retired.
I wouldn’t call myself a perfect illustrator who can create flawless sketches. No, I generate a flood of ideas, make rough sketches—far from professional ones—and then hand them over to my designer, explaining what I envision. The designer refines the sketch to perfection, and we pass it on to our master jewelers. But when it comes to production, I’m a true expert. There isn’t a single piece of jewelry in the world that I don’t understand how to make.
Interestingly, women play a leading role in many of our company’s processes—they make up 85% of our staff! This is one of the reasons why my collections are so diverse. Every day, I see different personalities, styles, and individualities, and I observe that these women appreciate different things. Beauty isn’t based on price. I have always aimed to create jewelry that isn’t overly expensive, so that as many women as possible can afford it. Yes, at Roberto Coin, you will always find something new.
You can call it strategy or policy, but for me, it’s the only way to work—to surprise and delight. Creativity and artistry mean the freedom to do what you want, to bring your vision to life. And I am always thrilled when our clients embrace this freedom with us.
Your company is known for both geometric and ornamental jewelry, as well as highly figurative designs—something quite rare under a single brand name.
Roberto Coin: You must always seek new ways, explore fresh geometric forms, and never fear bold constructions. When I created my first collection, Passionata, the more experienced masters in the field told me, “You’ll have to invent a completely new technique, but that’s impossible.” Yet, we developed a new structure and setting system, though it took us two years. It was during this time that I decided to incorporate a small ruby inside every piece—a unique signature that would unify all my designs, no matter how varied their styles.
But the Roberto Coin brand is also well-known for the figurative Animalier collection, which you expand each year with new animals…
R.C.: My approach here is different. I enjoy working alongside jewelers, much like a sculptor, to create highly realistic “portraits” of horses, elephants, and other animals. The goal is to stay as close to reality as possible.
We have earned a reputation as masters of gold—virtuoso artisans capable of presenting this precious metal in all its beauty, across any design, shade, or decorative engraving. The intricate textures and woven goldwork in our pieces play a far greater aesthetic role than the gemstones themselves.
You have so many technical innovations and proprietary techniques. Every new collection seems to feature unique, hidden elements…
R.C.: It’s jewelry technology—such as the use of lasers at certain stages—that allows us to achieve precision and complexity in our designs. But in the end, every piece is completed by the skilled hands of our artisans. We maintain a careful balance between technology and craftsmanship. Technology provides accuracy, but human hands bring beauty.
Modern advancements also allow us to make gold jewelry lighter—meaning it’s not only more affordable but also stronger and more comfortable to wear. Even our largest pieces are never heavy or bulky. How many savoir-faire techniques do we have? Honestly, I’ve never counted. I’m always focused on the next piece.
Today, Roberto Coin operates two factories—one in Thailand, where we cut gemstones, and another in Vicenza, employing 100 people. Altogether, we provide work for 200 artisans worldwide, collaborating with specialized craftsmen for the most intricate jewelry-making techniques.
How do you balance your roles as both a designer and a businessman? And how have you managed to remain independent all these years?
R.C.: Over the years, many companies have tried to acquire my brand. But I cannot work “under” someone else—I can only create with like-minded individuals. If there’s ever an obstacle in the creative process, it can only be me, no one else. While I always act with the utmost integrity—as a true gentleman should—I prefer to answer to no one. So, I’ve always said “no” to those offers.
I have an excellent management team, and my family is deeply involved in the business—my wife takes care of our clients, while my son oversees production and the company’s entire digital infrastructure. And we are doing quite well on our own.
What is the most valuable aspect of the jewelry business for you?
R.C.: It’s a magnificent way of life. I travel extensively, gaining deep knowledge about the world, different cultures, and traditions—something I would never have experienced had I remained in the hotel industry.
I entered the jewelry world in search of endless excitement and emotional stimulation. I have always needed to create something new.
I live for new objects, always seeking pieces that carry cultural meaning and undiscovered knowledge. That’s simply who I am. And that is what Roberto Coin stands for.
Coin’s dedication to craftsmanship and his ever-evolving artistic vision set his collections apart. His innovative use of rare and unconventional materials, along with bold textures and intricate patterns, pushes the boundaries of traditional jewelry design. For him, jewelry is not merely meant to dazzle—it should inspire, comfort, and tell a story. “When I create a new collection, it’s like having a new baby—one that brings immense joy but also requires special care,” he said.
One of his most meaningful collections, “Animalier,” conveys a message of wildlife conservation, with the striking eyes of the lion symbolizing the need to protect nature. Meanwhile, the “Venetian Princess” collection reimagines the iconic floral motifs of Venice, a city close to Coin’s heart. “I never simply recreate what I see—I transform it through my imagination,” he explains.
Roberto Coin’s distinctive designs have captivated admirers around the world, from Hollywood’s elite to collectors who appreciate the seamless fusion of Italian craftsmanship and artistic expression. His creations are featured in prestigious boutiques worldwide and frequently grace red carpets and high-fashion editorials. The brand’s reputation extends beyond its aesthetic excellence, earning admiration for its deep personal and artistic significance.
Among the many celebrities who have adorned his jewelry are Nicole Kidman, Oprah Winfrey, Selena Gomez, Cynthia Erivo, Kate Hudson, Jennifer Lopez, and Halle Berry, among others. With each piece, Roberto Coin continues to redefine luxury, proving that true beauty lies not just in the brilliance of a gemstone but in the soul of its creation.
When asked to define modern luxury, Roberto Coin emphasized that it holds a different meaning for everyone. “Fortunately, beauty and elegance are not determined by price,” he explained. “From the very beginning, I never set out to create jewelry solely for royalty. My focus has always been on the younger generation, empowering every woman to express her individuality. Our goal is to inspire wonder through innovation and craftsmanship.”
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