Giorgio Armani SPRING 2025 READY-TO-WEAR

Giorgio Armani's latest collection, while notably lighter on tailoring for womenswear, saw menswear take center stage with a bold, yet nuanced reimagining of classic tailoring. As Armani himself stated before the show, "Clothing should enhance the wearer's personality, and tailoring does that perfectly because it's timeless." He believes that, despite its perceived connection to the past, "tailoring is the future."

This belief was evident throughout the collection. Standout suits included a striped silk ensemble in sagey green tones, with pants nonchalantly tucked into slouchy boots. A deconstructed jacket, paired with an Armani-inspired baseball shirt, offered a fresh twist on traditional layering. The three-piece suit was also reinterpreted, with tailored jackets replaced by button-up silk raincoats, demonstrating a playful approach to structure.

Silken separates featured diffused feather prints, adding a touch of unexpected whimsy to the collection. The presentation culminated with a series of three black evening jackets, a testament to Armani's enduring elegance.

As Armani observed, "The path from inspiration to creation is unpredictable, but that's what makes it so exciting." This sentiment encapsulates the spirit of the collection, where tradition meets innovation, and where the future of tailoring is explored with a bold and exciting perspective.

"What I love most about New York is its speed, its constant reinvention, and its ability to remain both itself and entirely different," Giorgio Armani mused before his New York show, a statement that could easily describe his own career. The 90-year-old designer presented 90 looks, offering a dizzying, yet invigorating, overview of his 49-year fashion empire. This wasn't simply a retrospective; it was a vibrant tapestry woven from the threads of his iconic style.

Armani's first mainline show outside Milan, and his first New York show since 2013's "One Night Only," celebrated the reopening of his Madison Avenue flagship. With the store reportedly raking in over a million dollars a day, this event was a testament to the enduring power of the Armani brand. But beyond the commercial success, this show was a homecoming of sorts. Between 1975 and 1982, Armani's meteoric rise from obscurity to global fashion icon was deeply rooted in the energy and inspiration he found in New York City. "Experiencing it for the first time in the late 1970s after only having seen it on the screen was stimulating," he recalled. "It was an exciting time for both the city and America, and I felt like I was part of it."

As the steam train projections on the walls of the Park Avenue Armory signaled the show's start, the audience settled into the fantastical waiting room, a setting reminiscent of the Grand Central Station scene from "North by Northwest."

The first model, a vision of sleek, modern travel, strode out in a cropped trench and pleated pants tucked into mid-calf boots. She was accompanied by a porter bearing her luggage, but also carried a greige leather pochette and a clutch, embodying the cosmopolitan traveler.

This initial look set the stage for a series of distinct characters, each defined by their unique style and accessories. A flustered hero in greige tailoring with a knitted tie askew, and an uptown princess in blush silk bloomers and a matching jacket dress, complete with a labradoodle-cockapoo companion, showcased Armani's knack for crafting distinct silhouettes.

The show then unfolded through a series of distinct phases, highlighting key moments in Armani's design journey. The opening sequence showcased opulent, gamine travel wear, drawing inspiration from diverse global traditions and infused with Armani's signature elegance. Woven checks and silk jacquards added visual texture, creating an air of luxurious sophistication.

Later looks featured tunic-like textured shirts with strong shoulders and deconstructed waistcoats worn over long, layered organza skirts in soft peach hues. A striking shirt-parka in a complexly ornate fabric stood out, highlighting Armani's mastery of both pattern and fabrication.

A recurring wavy, lined pattern graced silks and was intricately embroidered onto sheer skirts and tops, further embellished with beaded fringes. The transition to evening wear was seamless, with the opening model reappearing in a kaleidoscopically coral-esque embroidered dress, this time flanked by three men in un-lapeled velvet evening jackets adorned with discreet crystal shimmers.

Armani's New York show was a celebration of his enduring style and the city that played such a pivotal role in his success. It was a journey through time, highlighting the evolution of his signature style, while simultaneously embracing the energy and dynamism of New York City.