Brunello Cucinelli SPRING 2024 READY-TO-WEAR

Knitwear specialist Brunello Cucinelli has been described as “the king of cashmere.” Based in the tranquil surroundings of Solomeo - a 14th century Umbrian village - his brand is renowned for its ethical and philosophical approach to business, as much as its sumptuous fabrics and timeless color palette.

Brunello Cucinelli dubbed his spring collection “Natural Aequilibrium” as he was aiming to balance embellishments and essential design, functionality and aesthetics. And that he did. A sleek, long denim skirt was worn under a white blouse as he morphed the traditional workwear and informal fabric into a sophisticated look.

The spring collection was an exercise in the “aequilibrium” Cucinelli preaches. Clean, essential masculine-inflected tailoring was warmed up by artisanal special pieces called Opere to highlight their elevated level of craftsmanship.

Strong shoulders were the focus of the silhouette. He shined a light on oversized blazers with a masculine cut, but still feminine, and the waist. This was emphasized by belts and pleats. Relaxed pants alternated with models with corseted waists.

Maxi cardigans and extra-long outerwear were worn over shorts, and maxi column skirts were displayed under cropped knits. Cucinelli’s signature exquisite knits, in crochet raffia or silk and linen, were lit up by metallic yarns. Fabrics were either smooth and compact or airy and grainy. The transparency of organza gave additional lightness to the skirts and pants, mainly in natural colors, from milky white to sand and quartz gray and brown.

“It’s important to stay true to one’s identity,” cautioned Cucinelli. He succeeded once again with this collection that was quintessentially Cucinelli, while subtly evolved.

Throughout the collection, silhouettes were kept neat and elongated, outlined with precise ease and lit up by metallic accents of liquid silver; denim pieces were also given a discreet glittery shine. Casual chez Cucinelli is always infused with a certain polish, and breezy informality is treated with a sartorial flair. Cucinelli, who definitely has a way with words, summed it up like this: “It’s tailoring with poetic license.”