Bluemarine 2025 READY-TO-WEAR

Blumarine's New Wave: David Koma Embraces the Flow

After a period of uncertainty, Blumarine has a new creative director at the helm: Georgia-born designer David Koma. While the in-house team crafted the Spring collection, Koma makes his debut with Pre-Fall, drawing inspiration from the fluidity of water and Nick Knight's ethereal rose photographs.

The result is a streamlined, yet still distinctly Blumarine, take on their signature girly aesthetic. The aquatic theme washes away the saccharine sweetness, introducing a slightly bohemian touch that, while echoing Chloé, feels fresh and contemporary.

Voluminous, ethereal fabrics take center stage, flowing into see-through, asymmetrical blouses adorned with trailing scarves or cascading into tiered, hand-pleated mini dresses. These pieces are best imagined billowing in a beach breeze.

Contrasting this lightness are slim, craquelé leather pants, laced all the way up. These form-fitting pieces provide a grounded counterpoint to the diaphanous chiffons and georgettes.

Fringes, evoking the movement of water, are interwoven with crystal drops and tiny metallic roses. They adorn the ultrashort hems of translucent sequined mini dresses and pareo skirts, replacing the brand's former fluffy feathers and marabou.

The color palette reflects a sun-bleached, post-swim sheen, while appliquéd floral bouquets on languid slip dresses hint at shells gathered from the shore. Even the iconic leopard print has undergone a transformation, appearing in a washed-out, almost aquatic, form, as if reimagined for a new breed of felines.

This collection marks a new chapter for Blumarine, one that embraces a more fluid and ethereal aesthetic. It’s a departure that feels both familiar and fresh, blending the brand's heritage with a contemporary sensibility.