A New Chapter at Dries Van Noten: Klausner's Confident Debut

From the raw, industrial spaces of Dries Van Noten's pre-pandemic shows to the opulent halls of the Opéra Garnier, Julian Klausner's debut as creative director signaled a distinct shift. This change of venue wasn't just aesthetic; it marked a new era for the beloved Belgian brand.

Taking over after Van Noten's retirement, Klausner, a six-year veteran of the label, faces a unique challenge. Unlike other designers tasked with course correction or reinvention, he inherits a brand known for its exceptional, real-life clothing, deeply cherished by industry insiders. His task: to evolve, not revolutionize.

"I wanted to let my imagination go a bit, but always keeping in mind it's about a wardrobe," Klausner explained. "These pieces should exist in real life, and there should be flexibility."

The show itself presented a fascinating blend of the familiar and the new. Van Noten's signature interplay of prints, textures, and embroideries remained, though with a shift towards more structured forms. The Opéra's influence was palpable, dictating tassel details and inspiring the dramatic "curtain opening" concept.

While some styling choices leaned towards excess, Klausner demonstrated a keen understanding of the brand's DNA. Highlights included jackets with striking white lapels, ombré plaids reminiscent of Van Noten's iconic grunge era, a relaxed silk pantsuit with crystal embellishments, and a tapestry coat with intricate collar embroidery.

With Dries Van Noten himself in attendance, Klausner's debut was a resounding success. He displayed confidence and a clear vision, promising a compelling future for the brand.